Your New Friends :

Miniature goats are very easy to care for compared to most pets or farm animals. They can be kept on the smallest hobby farm as well as the largest holding or even on a suburban lot, if your local bylaws permit. Their needs are fairly simple. Clean, dry shelter, a fenced exercise yard, a goat pal to play with, hay, a little grain, clean water, some simple health maintenance, some human attention and kindness and they are pretty happy campers! Below, some more details on meeting their needs, and some suggested references for more info.

Housing :

For a couple of pet goats, a shelter need not be large or complicated. The equivalent of a small garden shed will do fine, as long as it is clean, cleanable, dry, but well ventilated, and made of safe materials. Goats will chew so ensure that it’s safe if they do so; no pressure treated wood, no paints or varnish. Cedar is a good choice; it stands up well to weather and a little cedar snack just helps them stay worm free. Even a small metal pre-fab type shed will do fine, if you ensure adequate ventilation. Windows are good, especially if they open, as goats love light and air. If you don’t have windows, just open or meshed areas for ventilation are fine, though you might want to be able to close shutters on cold winter nights. A stall or stalls in a bigger barn are fine as well. Remember though, goats love company, and although they should not be overcrowded, they truly hate to sleep alone. Bedding should be provided, straw is best, though some use sawdust, shavings, or hay. Housing should be regularly cleaned and the waste makes fantastic compost or nutrient rich mulch for your garden. Goats need free access to their housing in the day, especially if the weather is poor. No one hates rain as much as a Nigie!

Yard & Exercise :

A little fenced area around the house is a must. It doesn’t need to be huge; 2 mini goats could get by on an absolute minimum of 20'X 20', though if you can provide more, even better! Your goat yard should ideally have some sunny spots, some shady (a tree outside the run is good, as goats will ring trees they can get to). Check your yard and remove poisonous plants (see resources, Pg4), sharp bits of wire or miscellany that might harm your nibblers! Your goats will also need exercise. Provide a few stumps or rocks to climb on or build your pets a jungle gym, but even a few logs to walk along will be appreciated. You’ll enjoy watching your goats’ acrobatic abilities as much as they’ll enjoy the activity! If you have more land, that’s great, and it need not be polished pasture land; goats are super land clearers. They’ll enjoy chewing up any blackberries, broom, weeds or brush. (Some people with raw land will fence one area, put the goats in to clear the brush and fertilize the soil then move the goats on and till the first yard for gardening.) Mini goats are sociable and happily share pastures with cattle, horses, llamas, donkeys or big goats. If you have the land, rotating pastures is a great idea so the greens can grow back between times. Goats can be tethered to mow the lawn, too; just be careful they are tethered well, protected from predators and from any poisonous plants or areas that have been exposed to pesticides, herbicides, or chemical fertilizers. They can also be taken on walks (in areas safe from predators) to browse on brush, lawn, or other greenery in unfenced areas, or just to enjoy the companionship and change of pace.

Fencing & Predator Protection :

Fencing serves two purposes; to keep your goats in (and away from your neighbour’s prize-winning roses) and to keep predators out. Most mini goats who are happy in their environment, have the company of at least one other goat and some attention from their human family are quite content and don’t bother to try for any unauthorized outings. However, goats in general are well known escape artists, and if their needs for exercise, companionship or food are not being met, they are more than smart enough to plan and execute a Great Escape. Gates should open in towards the run rather than out, and fence posts should be on the outside of the fencing. Goats love to scratch themselves by rubbing along the wire, which can play havoc with your fencing if the posts are on the inside. Posts can be metal or wood; we recommend strong wood posts, cemented in, for the corner posts at least. Never use pressure treated wood as the preservatives are very poisonous! Natural cedar, charred on the below-ground portion last very well and will not harm your animal friends (or the environment). Smaller grid than standard farm fencing is better, as Nigerian babies can be tiny; “stucco wire” or “knuckle top” with approximately 1X2 inch grid (galvanized so it won’t rust) works well. We recommend 6 ft wire fencing even for mini goats, because although they can’t jump a four or five foot fence, many predators, including dogs, (which are the greatest danger to miniature goats in most areas) can. We live on the west coast of Canada, in bear and cougar territory and have taken the precautions of an electric wire at the top, though, depending upon your situation that will likely not be needed. Shut the goats in their barn/house at night for optimum protection. They will be cozied together in the house at night by choice, so they don’t mind, and it can give you peace of mind.

Food & Water:

Hay or pasture (grasses, weeds, or brush) must be available to goats at all times. Hay should be from a feeder that is sheltered, dry, and off the ground. Mother Nature teaches goats to avoid feeding from the ground as a parasite preventative, and that natural instinct should be encouraged and supported. Fresh, clean water in clean containers must also be available at all times. Add to this a small serving of 16-18% protein goat feed or dairy ration; we always recommend organically grown feed. It also must not contain urea as this is toxic to goats. Goats also love “treats” such as carrot, beet, or apple slices. Some vegetable greens, such as cabbage, lettuce, or kale can be enjoyed as well, in moderation. A few fresh herbs such as oregano, lemon balm, and sorrel, and free access to “weeds” such as dandelions, blackberry, plantain are a healthy addition. You may give less grain if good pasture and browse is available. Never increase grain ration abruptly, or suddenly give large amounts of fresh greens that the goats are unaccustomed to; all increases should be gradual. The dietary needs of pregnant, nursing, or milking goats are more specific and greater care must be taken with mineral supplementation as well. (See list of suggested resources and do your homework! If you want your goats to provide milk for you, make sure you know how to provide for their increased needs before you proceed.)

Goat Psychology, Emotional Wellbeing :

People are often loathe to give full attention to this matter, yet anyone who has ever had a pet of any kind knows that animals have feelings too. Goats are complex creatures psychologically; each is highly individual, which is part of what makes them such fascinating friends. Learning the basics of goat psychology and the individual personalities of your goats can make all the difference in their quality of life and your full enjoyment of the experience of goat keeping. Should you decide to breed and milk goats, it is truly crucial. Firstly, goats are herd animals, and although they do bond strongly with their human family, and very much enjoy interacting with other animals, they really need the constant companionship of another goat or goats. In a larger herd, there is always a queen, and a complex web of herd dynamics that makes watching their interactions quite captivating! Your new goats (whether babies or adults) will, when they first come to you, be suffering from leaving the herd they know and are a part of. It is your job to help them through this transition and with care and attention, and perhaps a homeopathic helper or two (see our starter supply list), they will bond to you strongly and love you and the new life you are giving them. Nigerians and Nigerian crosses are almost universally gentle, friendly and affectionate. However, some may be more sensitive, some may be more playful, some may have a mischievous streak; pay attention, learn who they are, and you will be rewarded with a friendship that will touch and entertain you, and add much joy to your life.

Health Care & Basic Maintenance:

As long as they are from disease-free stock, goats in general are hardy and tend to have few health problems. Still, they need some basic care to maintain their good health. Their hooves will need to be inspected and trimmed every 4-8 weeks or so. Some choose to vaccinate their goats, though this is a choice you will need to research and decide upon for yourself. All farmyard animals can suffer from internal or external parasites and you will want to do some preventative maintenance in those areas. Mineral supplements can greatly benefit your goats. That’s about it… If you want milk, care is a little more complex, but quite manageable, and there are good resources to help you learn the management. Breeders and all but the smallest farms usually do a good deal of their own basic vetting themselves, but for the beginner, some basic maintenance and preventative care will usually serve quite well. You should do some phoning around to find a vet familiar with goats in your area in case of emergencies, but odds are, with some good guides (such as the books and resources we list below) and proper attention to basic care, you will be able to keep your new friends healthy and well. Below we list our suggested Basic Goat Care Supplies list. We raise our goats organically with the least chemicals and pharmaceuticals possible, so our suggestions follow these principles. Avail yourself of a few good books, do your homework, and decide for yourself, but these supplies and practices will get you started.

Basic Goat Care Supplies :

  • Buckets for water. Choose new, or ones you know to be food grade, a good solid non-tippy shape. They will need at least one inside their house and one outside. They must be kept clean & full!
  • Clean bowls for feed. We like stainless steel. If you end up milking, you will likely feed during milking time, with a feeder attached to your milking stand.
  • Mineral supplements. “Salt licks” or mineral blocks are necessary for optimum health and are critical for milkers. All goats need the copper coloured lick, especially those with darker fur, whose copper needs are higher. Many areas are deficient in Selenium, for which a blue lick is necessary. Your local feed store (which should carry the mineral supplements), vet, or government agricultural agent can likely tell you if your animals will need Selenium. We also give a loose mineral mix and provide baking soda as well. These can be offered at feeding time, or in feeders hung on the wall; the goats will know when they need them and will help themselves.
  • Nutritional extras. We like to add the odd extra to our goat’s diet, especially during winter. Dried kelp, fresh herbs or greens to feed, and a little apple cider vinegar or molasses in water are good nutritious additions.
  • Iodine, available at most feed stores or pharmacies, to clean wounds (and disinfect navels during birthing process)
  • Digital Thermometer, available at pharmacies, will help you know if a goat is in trouble with an infection, or other situation that may require veterinary help. A goat’s healthy temperature (taken rectally) should be around 101 to 103.5 degrees.
  • Hoof trimmers. These are similar to rose clippers, but with straight blades, and can be purchased in livestock supply or feed stores.
  • Collars. We use nylon dog collars on all our goats. This helps with management, giving you something to hold onto while doing basic care such as hoof trimming or brushing. Goats can also be trained to walk nicely on a leash, which can be great fun.
  • Brush. Most kinds of dog brushes will work fine. Unless you keep your goats clipped for showing, they will grow beautiful fur, longer and thicker in the winter, and will enjoy the occasional brushing, especially in spring time when their winter coat come out. We also use a brush to distribute diatomaceous earth through our goats’ fur.
  • Diatomaceous Earth. Made from a crushed fossil product, and available from most feed stores, this is used to prevent or treat exterior parasites, such as lice, which are very common in farm animals. Truthfully, a few lice in fur are not a danger to the animal, but regular brushing and the use of diatomaceous earth can prevent them. We provide a dust bath, especially in summer, of sand, ashes from the wood stove and diatomaceous earth, which the goats love to roll in. It is non-toxic, but the dust can be irritating, so use caution when applying. Food grade diatomaceous earth can also be used as a supplement in food on a weekly basis to prevent internal parasites such as worms.
  • Herbal Dewormers. There are many good sources for herbal dewormers, which you can use preventatively in place of toxic chemical dewormers. You can use human grade, from the health food store, or you can make your own. Many common herbs and foods that goats love have anti-parasitical properties including garlic, pumpkin seeds, raw carrot, daisies, chamomile, mint, oregano, sage, rough ground raw brown rice, wormwood, cedar & fir bark & leaf. Again, do your homework; check in some of the references below to confirm safety of individual herbs for goats.
  • Homeopathics, Flower Essences. These subtle natural medicines can be extremely effective for goats. These are available at most health food stores, many pharmacies and some pet stores. We recommend always having on hand:
    • Bach Flower Rescue Remedy &/or Traumeel for trauma or shock related to moving, stress, anxiety, showings, injury, disbudding, birth etc.
    • Homeopathic Arnica Montana 6ch, for any kind of injury, bruising, bleeding, disbudding, labour, birth etc.
    • Homeopathic Ignatia 6ch, for grieving related to separation from kids or herd
  • If you decide to vaccinate, medicate, or use chemical dewormers, you will need to use a vet or purchase and learn to administer these products yourself, in which case you will need epinephrine in case of adverse reactions, but research these decisions carefully!
  • If you decide to breed and milk your does, care is more complicated and requires more supplies and more detailed information. (See resources and references, below)

When to call the vet? Most farmers end up needing to do much of their own vetting, but until you are more experienced, don’t take chances. Before you have problems, find a vet who knows goats (not all do!) Then, trust your instincts if anything worries you; increase or decrease in activity or eating, change in behaviour, panting, swollen belly or odd postures may be signs of trouble. Check for the obvious first; do they have access to shelter, shade, good clean food and water etc. Ask a more experienced goat keeper if you can get a hold of one, but if there is obvious distress, or abnormal vitals, don’t delay, call your vet.

Goat Vitals:

  • Pulse - 70 to 80 beats per min, faster for kids
  • Rectal temperature 101º - 103.5º..+/- 1º
  • Respiratory Rate - 12 to 15 per min, faster for kids
  • Rumen Movements - 1 to 4 per min